Blessed release is in the glass
Sydney Morning Herald
Tuesday September 29, 2009
To get the best out of your whisky, look straight to its vessel, writes Sally Gudgeon. Bill Lumsden likes to release the serpent when he smells a glass of malt whisky. The master distiller for Ardbeg and Glenmorangie noses his malt whisky, then adds a teardrop of water to it, which releases the aromas.With a peaty malt such as Ardbeg Uigeadail, there is layer upon layer to uncoil: those medicinal peat and smoke aromas come first, then sherry notes, chocolate, toffee and barley sugar, with hints of fruitcake and olives. In his charming Scottish brogue, he expands further on his method: If you add ice to a malt, it's like a man jumping naked into a freezing loch: everything shuts down.So if you don't want to shock your whisky, preferring instead to gently coax the aromas and flavours out, cup the glass in your hands.Enjoying the aromas is an important part of appreciating a fine malt, so take your time. Some tasters cover the top of the glass with their hand, then remove it and run the glass under their nose before taking that first sip. It's tempting to swirl the glass but this isn't necessary with whisky. So what's the best type of glass for whisky? Lumsden prefers a tulip-shaped glass, the type used for technical tastings.If you want to combine form with function, the Riedel Vinum Single Malt glass ($45) was developed with the help of Scottish master distillers. Its rim flares outwards so the whisky hits the tip of the tongue first (the part that perceives sweetness), in order to emphasise the complexity of a good malt.The Glencairn glass ($10), with its tulip-shaped bowl and sturdy base, is an excellent choice for nosing and tasting. It fits neatly in the hand and the tulip shape delivers the aromas to the front of the palate.Then there are the traditional tumblers. For those who appreciate old-style class, the Heritage Roly Poly glass ($150) has the diamond-like shimmer only lead crystal can give, as the light dances across it.If you want to enjoy all the serpentine aromas and flavours different malt whiskies conceal, invest in some good glassware.WHAT IS MALT WHISKY?Single-malt whisky is made from malted barley in a pot still. It is the product of a single distillery. Malt whiskies are usually classified by their area of origin. The five areas are Speyside, Highland, Lowland, Campbeltown and Islay. Examples of single malts include Glenmorangie, The Macallan (pictured) and Glenfarclas.Blended Scotch whisky is a mixture of single-malt whisky and grain whisky and is the product of more than one distillery. Most Scotch fits into this category, including Chivas Regal, Johnnie Walker Red, Grant's and The Famous Grouse.Single-grain whisky is the product of a single distillery and made from unmalted barley, maize or wheat, water and barley in a continuous still. Almost all grain whisky goes into the blending process to create blended Scotch. Single-grain whiskies, such as Port Dundas, are less common than blended or malt whiskies.Vatted malt whisky is a blend of single-malt whiskies from more than one distillery, such as Monkey Shoulder and Sheep Dip.
© 2009 Sydney Morning Herald